reviews

"Seapoint has a new general manager in Gerry Crossan – who will be familiar to aficionados of Town Bar & Grill. It's a smart move on the part of owners Shane Kenny and chef Nick Clapham and there are subtle changes in terms of the food and wine offering that reflect his influence. Despite its location, there's nothing suburban about Seapoint.

We kick off with Rosemary and Orange Salted Sardines, Black Pudding, Tomato Chutney, Crispy Pancetta (€9.50) and Potted Shrimp, Bruschetta, Micro Rocket, Mustard Cress Salad (€10.50). The sardines have been filleted and combine very well with the black pudding, which is of the light as opposed to barley-rich variety. Likewise the shrimp, prepared with crème fraiche, the zest and juice of lime and lemon and a touch of chilli, and accompanied with toasted brioche, have a great zing about them. These are both sophisticated, carefully thought-out dishes with an amount of originality about them.

For mains, we agonise over the special of wild turbot but in the end opt for Chargrilled Swordfish, Ragout of Asparagus, Wild Mushrooms & Truffle Jus, Flaked Parmesan (€24.50) and Pan-seared Escalope of Veal, Tomato Chutney, Crispy Pancetta, Caper, Sage & Lemon Dressing (€21.50). The swordfish is a fine, generous tranche – meaty and flavoursome. I think there's too much tomato in the veal dish but Felim disagrees – "I know it looks as if there's too much tomato, but when you taste it there isn't". Either way, it's a minor quibble. Both dishes come with the excellent Seapoint Fries, which are famous in these parts, and we add a side of Asparagus, Parmesan, Shallots, Bacon (€4) on our waiter's recommendation. It's a good call.

For pud, we go for the Fine Apple Tart, Caramel Sauce, Banoffee Ice Cream (€8.50) and a cheeseboard (€10.50), which comes served on a slate with the names of the cheeses – on this occasion Camembert, Reblochon, Carrigaline, Tomme, Cashel Blue and the wonderful cheddar-like Coolattin from Wicklow – written on the slate in white. It's a clever touch, and I'm sure saves the wait-staff an amount of grief and repetition. We intend only to sample the apple tart but it's so good that we end up licking the plate.

We indulge in the Domaine Langoureau, Chassagne Montrachet, 2007 – justifying our choice on the basis that, at €59, it is priced more reasonably at Seapoint than we have seen it elsewhere.

The list here has plenty to interest and is keenly priced. Complimentary glasses of a delicious Leonardo vin santo and Niepoort LBV port appear with the apple tart and the cheese, rounding our night off perfectly and doing plenty to dispel the post-holiday blues....With a new upstairs room that's getting plenty of business as a space for small weddings and other functions, Seapoint is a neighbourhood restaurant that's come of age, one that's good enough to be a destination. Happy second birthday."

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Katy McGuinness - The Sunday Tribune | Sunday, July 18th 2010